Yes, you read the title correctly, during my annual snow monkey Hokkaido nature photo workshop tour we visit an authentic Japanese Samurai Castle, Matsumoto Castle originally known as Fukashi Castle built in 1504 by Shimadashi Sadanaga; it was expanded and fortified throughout a few generations, and today you can view this Samurai Castle as it was viewed on completion in 1594.  Locally it is known as ‘Crow Castle,’ in Japanese, ‘Karasujo 松本城’,  as many of the exterior walls are painted a deep ebon, and from many perspectives on the castle grounds, it appears as if the towers are wings, spread wide to encompass all of the samurai lord’s domain.  Matsumoto Castle is one of twelve original Samurai castles that stand today and can only be viewed in The Land Of The Rising Sun.  Samurai era castles are unique only to Japan and nowhere else, and these castles were built by samurai and artisans.  Samurai castles served two purposes.  The first purpose was strategic defenses such as main routes through a Daimyo’s (Samurai Warlords) domain, ports, river crossings or anyplace where an opposing Daimyo might easily gain access and set up camp and take up arms to battle.  Most Samurai castles were surrounded by moats, and had large grounds, and in the main keep of the castle is where stores of food, animals, and weapons were held in case of a prolonged siege.  The second purpose was to showcase the wealth of the Daimyo.

All Japanese castles are spectacular and represent some important element of Japanese culture, Matsumoto Castle is no exception.  For nearly 300 years after its completion, and before its complete renovation during the Meiji Era, the castle was ruled by 23 lords of Matsumoto.  Moreover, Matsumoto Castle is so distinctive that in 1952, the keep (Inui-ko-tenshu), the roofed passage (Watari-yagura), the southern wing (Tatsumi-tsuke-yagura) and the moon viewing room (Tsukimi-yagura) were designated as Japanese natural treasures.  As an amateur historian, if you have an interest in history and samurai culture, my knowledge base about the samurai and Matsumoto castle could fill more than 1,000 pages and encompass countless hours of discussion, but we’re on a wildlife photography workshop with limited time to spend, and it’s similar during my Cherry Blossom and Essence of Autumn photo workshop, but if you would like a more in-depth history and culture experience, many of my clients arrange several days extension with me as there group photo workshop finish date, and some book a 1-2 week private Japan photo workshop, and we explore much more than Matsumoto Castle.  We venture to Nikko, Kagoshima, the Imperial Palace, the Yasukuni shrine and many other sacred and historical sites.  The discussion could potentially never end.  I belong to several historical societies, and I’m happy to share as much information as you’d like as part of your Japan photo workshop experience.   You may have joined a snow monkey Hokkaido photography workshop, but participants in my workshops don’t spend their first day at a hotel in Tokyo.  Day one is meet and greet, and then photographing and enjoying the evening golden hour at Mt. Fuji.  During dinner, participants, my team, and I toast to our good fortune on our photography workshop expedition, as I do on every one of my workshops, and then on Day two we’re not spending 4 - 5 hours driving to the snow monkey park.  Day two includes golden hour at Mt. Fuji then breakfast at our lodgings, and on the way to the snow monkey park, we visit Japan’s most pilgrimaged to Shinto shrine complex, and Matsumoto Castle is on the way, so we might as well stop and take some photos.  While at the snow monkey park, you will also have the opportunity to visit a Buddhist sanctuary where national treasures are held, private viewing only.  The third generation head abbot and I are friends and kindred spirits, sharing tea on occasion.  At times, the abbot will bring out ancient scrolls which are national treasures.  Every time I call to make an appointment, the conversation is warm and lively, and he’s happy to host me and my participants when we arrive so we can photograph the unique healing spiritual Buddhist sanctuary with an amazing altar piece (see the photo below).  Now, let’s return to the land of the samurai and take a walk in their footsteps appreciating the significance of Matsumoto Castle.  I will share some main points about the historically significant samurai figures who played a key role in the castle’s history from the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Oda Nobunaga, Takeda Shigen, and a few others as well, so as you fill your camera’s memory card to commemorate your visit, I will enrich your understanding about the significance of the castle and its preservation since its completion.  Matsumoto Castle is one of the three most famous Samurai castles of Japan.

From 1542 Takeda Shingen was constantly at battle with his neighboring province Shinano (today’s Nagano) which was ruled by not so powerful Daimyo’s such as the Suwa, Ogasawara, Murakami and Takato Samurai clans, where Fukashijo/Matsumoto castle stands.  In 1550, Takeda Shingen (武田信玄 known as “ The Tiger of Kai” one of Japan’s most famous and fierce Daimyo warlords of Kai province (today’s Yamanashi), laid siege to then Fukashijo after a stealth attack to his modest home in Yamanashi.  His army was widely considered the strongest army during the Sengoku period.  The Tiger of Kai easily took over the castle and renamed it Matsumoto Castle while he continued fortifying it.  Takeda Shingen was well known for taking the fight to his enemies, and is known even to this day as the hero of the Yamanashi people, and one of the top 10 most fierce and loved Samurai Daimyo’s throughout Japanese history.  Even today when visiting Mt. Fuji which resides in Yamanashi, or elsewhere in the prefecture, you will constantly view the Takeda clan’s emblem, and you would be hard pressed to find anyone who does not know the name Takeda Shingen.  Takeda Shingen was so respected and loved by the citizens in Yamanashi that he did not need to build a castle or a palace with extensive defensive features because he lived in harmony side by side with the people of Yamanashi.  His capital, Kofu of Yamanashi, is situated in a valley where one can easily detect an invading army on horseback or on foot hours before an attack.  And with one of the largest samurai armies and a large population of people, only the most foolish would attempt a direct attack on the Tiger of Kai, especially when he walked side by side with the common people of Kai and they worshiped him as a god.

In 1572, at the age of 49, Takeda Shingen had pacified most of his neighbors and had fought the future shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu’s forces and captured Futamata.  In 1573, Takeda Shingen decided to make his route and drive his way to Kyoto with the blessings of the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshiaki, who was no longer a true shogun.  And at this time another Daimyo, Oda Nobunaga, a brilliant but young leader, was rushing to power, and quickly overtaking Japan.  And the Tiger of Kai was the only Daimyo at the time who was tactically and militarily inclined to stop Oda Nobunaga’s rush to power and rule Japan.  January 25, 1573 was the Battle of Mikatagahara in which The Tiger of Kai tried to avoid conflict with future shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu based at Hamamatsu Castle, and the tiger wished to march directly to Kyoto avoiding Tokugawa and save his forces to attack and destroy Oda Nobunaga, but this was not to be, and at the battle of Mikatagahara where future shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu’s head was almost taken, and is also considered to be the future shogun’s most humiliating and worst strategic defeat in his bakufu’s shogunate (幕府) history, but this defeat delayed Takeda Shingen's march to Kyoto, and his army had no choice but to regroup.  At their next battle, The Siege of Noda Castle, Takeda Shingen was wounded in February 1573; to this day we still do not know the exact cause of his wounds, and we don’t know the date of his exact passing which was kept secret for months.  An official announcement was made May 13, 1573.  After the official announcement, even his enemies were deeply saddened, and it is said that when Uesugi Kenshin heard the official news he had tears in his eyes, and mumbled something to the effect of, “Today I lost a good friend.”