In the thirteenth century, a power spot was once again uncovered on Sado Island in the Myosenji Temple region. It is believed that the region was home to a Kofun village and burial grounds better known in Japan as Kofun mounds. While leading photo tour expeditions across Japan, I am able to explain in detail facts of ancient wood, stone carvings, and priceless iron cast artifacts dating from the 6th century to the present day. But when it comes to a period in Japan known as the Kofun period and explaining the facts and dates of this period’s artifacts, I run into a stone wall from time to time. The reason I hit a barrier is that the Imperial Family is the caretaker of the Kofun period sites and only recognizes a pitiful percentage of the nation’s treasure trove of over 170,000 Kofun mounds that are known to exist. The information ranges from non-existent to extremely limited, so my explanation turns toward folklore and oral accounts and storytelling about Kofun mounds in locations throughout Japan. As a historian, I do not like offering folklore as a historical fact because it borders on conspiracy theory, and over 95% of the time, I want nothing to do with conspiracy theorist’s theories. They spread the worst kind of hearsay and cloud actual fact-finding regarding this important era in Japan’s history.
When I visit Sado Island on a private Niigata historical workshop with camera in hand, Myosenji Temple is a must-see location. The famous Kodō Taiko drumming troupe are also part of my itinerary, most often sought out near Earth Day. Rather than the rhythmic beat of drums, many participants search for a Zen, calming experience akin to a midnight tryst in Tsubame’s milky white hot springs, and it’s also believed that the Kofun Era residents rejuvenating their energy in the same milky white hot springs, especially during full moons. Myosenji Temple resonates with the same Kofun Era energy as Tsubame’s milky white hot springs. The temple is built on the former site of Sadogashima castle and is home to the only 5-story pagoda in Niigata. The story of its construction is a tale in and of itself. To complete the momentous task of constructing the pagoda, it took two master temple carpenter artisans. The first master carpenter artisan took particular interest in training his apprentice because the 2nd carpenter artisan to carry the responsibility of Myosenji Temple’s completion was the 1st son. The pagoda represents Japanese dogma, samurai diligence, and fine attention to detail that is synonymous with a master artisan, and whenever I visit, I ask my participants to find one exposed screw or nail in the pagoda. After several minutes of, “Umm…maybe there” and “that could be one,” I tell my clients and friends who are visiting that there is not one nail or screw in the entire structure. It’s usually at that moment that we step back, take a moment to visually meditate to discover our composition, and, at this point, the Concierge of the Zen forest appears to appease our visual artistry, and the Concierge, if you’ve read any of my other articles, you know he is a harbinger of the beginner’s mindset.